{"id":2728,"date":"2026-09-05T17:28:50","date_gmt":"2026-09-05T15:28:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/newclick.nl\/system\/"},"modified":"2026-11-05T11:11:18","modified_gmt":"2026-11-05T10:11:18","slug":"system","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/newclick.eu\/en\/system\/","title":{"rendered":"System"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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How the NewClick system works<\/h1>\n <\/div>\n
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NewClick is a hidden fixing system for composite facade cladding. The slats click onto horizontal aluminium rails with pre-mounted clips. No pre-drilling, no visible screws, no special tools.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n

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Three components, one system<\/h2>\n <\/div>\n
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1. Aluminium rail system<\/h3>\n

15 mm aluminium rails with plastic clips pre-mounted at fixed centres, screwed to the substructure. Horizontal for vertical slats, vertical for horizontal slats. The rail sets the spacing, not the slat.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n

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2. Composite cladding<\/h3>\n

Co-extruded wood-plastic composite, 2900 mm long. Hook the knife edge behind the clip, lever it on and it clicks in one movement. Available as Rhombus, Barcode and Swedish Rebate.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n

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3. Finishing profiles<\/h3>\n

Aluminium and composite start, end, corner and drainage profiles, with stainless steel stoppers, end clips and colour screws. See all finishing trims<\/a>.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n

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\"Black
Aluminium rail with clips (AL-08).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The installation tool: lever the slat home.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Six
Rails on the wall, clips already in place.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Universal
Universal corner and end profile (SC09).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n
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Installation in short<\/h2>\n

One installer, standard tools, from bottom to top. Pick a stage to see the steps. The full manual covers every detail that matters for the warranty.<\/p>\n <\/div>\n

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  1. \"Six<\/figure>

    1<\/span>Mount the rails<\/h3>

    Level the rails with a laser or spirit level. Maximum centres 548 mm for a 2900 mm slat. Screw each rail directly to the wall, to timber frame or to battens, about every 35 cm. The rails double as ventilation battens.<\/p><\/li>\n

  2. \"Two<\/figure>

    2<\/span>Join the next rail<\/h3>

    If the facade is longer than one rail, slide the clips of both rails into each other so the clip spacing continues. Do not let all rail joints fall in the same place.<\/p><\/li>\n

  3. \"Stopper<\/figure>

    3<\/span>Place the stopper first<\/h3>

    Behind every slat goes one stainless steel stopper, spread alternately over the three middle rails. It bites the slat onto the clips so it cannot sink. Without stoppers the warranty lapses.<\/p><\/li>\n <\/ol>\n <\/div>\n

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    1. \"Slat<\/figure>

      4<\/span>Hook in the knife edge<\/h3>

      Hold the slat at an angle and hook the knife edge behind the clips first. Check that the first row of clips is exactly vertical so the first slat fits.<\/p><\/li>\n

    2. \"Mounting<\/figure>

      5<\/span>Click it on with the tool<\/h3>

      Hook the mounting tool into the cut-out of the plastic clip and lever the slat against the clips in one movement.<\/p><\/li>\n

    3. \"Rubber<\/figure>

      6<\/span>Hard to reach? Use a mallet<\/h3>

      If you cannot reach well with the tool, tap the slat on at an angle with a rubber mallet.<\/p><\/li>\n

    4. \"First<\/figure>

      7<\/span>Beam and helper screws<\/h3>

      Rest the slats on a support beam of at least 30 mm for equal height and 30 to 50 mm ground clearance. Once the first two slats sit on both sides of the rails, remove the helper screws with a 2.5 mm hex key so the clips can move with expansion.<\/p><\/li>\n <\/ol>\n <\/div>\n

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      1. \"End<\/figure>

        8<\/span>Cut slats: end clip<\/h3>

        The last slat usually needs cutting to width. Screw an end clip to the end of each rail and clamp the cut slat behind it. Always leave at least 3 mm for expansion.<\/p><\/li>\n

      2. \"Slat<\/figure>

        9<\/span>Openings<\/h3>

        Around windows and at the end of a facade, finish with an aluminium or composite finishing profile.<\/p><\/li>\n

      3. \"Section<\/figure>

        10<\/span>Above an opening<\/h3>

        Option 1: aluminium start, end and top profile covering the cut ends. Option 2: a composite finishing board in the reveal plus an aluminium drainage profile. Cut ends must never stay wet.<\/p><\/li>\n

      4. \"Section<\/figure>

        11<\/span>Stacking slats<\/h3>

        Higher than one slat length? Mount an aluminium joining profile on the seam. It covers the top of the lower slats and drains water away. Leave a small gap for expansion.<\/p><\/li>\n <\/ol>\n <\/div>\n

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        1. \"Two<\/figure>

          12<\/span>Corners<\/h3>

          The universal profile serves outside corners and facade ends. Screw the aluminium corner trim to the rails first, click the profile over it and fix it with a short screw.<\/p><\/li>\n

        2. \"Close-up<\/figure>

          13<\/span>Corner detail<\/h3>

          Cut the trims to about 25 cm and mount them together with the rails to test that everything fits. Keep at least 3 mm of free space around corners and window frames.<\/p><\/li>\n

        3. \"Mounting<\/figure>

          14<\/span>Universal end profile<\/h3>

          The same profile finishes the end of a facade. Click it over the aluminium trim after the last slat is on.<\/p><\/li>\n

        4. \"Slat<\/figure>

          15<\/span>Sloped gable<\/h3>

          Fill the slope with empty rails without clips. Click slats on as far as possible, cut them along the roof edge and screw the cut ends to the empty rails with colour screws (one per rail, not too tight). Cover the cut ends with a roof trim.<\/p><\/li>\n <\/ol>\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n